Saturday 11 October 2014

Snakes and Ladders (and Tunnels) Updated Blog for the route

To start I would like to thank http://snakesladdersandtunnels.blogspot.co.uk/ for the useful information on the route. This blog is an updated guide to the route Snake and Ladders (and Tunnels).

Snake and Ladders (and Tunnels)

Update for 2016 - A ladder has broken, some of the chain is missing and everything is ever so slightly more terrible. Still solid HVS in terms of danger but is still a cracking route.

Okay let’s get started!

Kit List:

1 x 60m climbing rope / 50m should be okay as well
6 x quick-draws or runners - for the chain! :)
Climbing harness
5 x big carabiners
Belay device (each)
Head torch (Emergencies only, don't use them in the tunnels! It adds to the fun)
Warm/Waterproof clothing
Prussik (each)
Slings (3x 60cm and 1x 120cm minimum)
Lid (Helmet) - Essential
Mobile phone for 999
Food & Drink
Climbing shoes for the chain (Makes life a bit easier)
Spare tat and a few mallions (If the ab tat looks suspect)
Knife

(Optional: If you want to head down to the bottom of Mordor it is advisable you take some nuts and maybe a few cams to anchor in a safety rope as the ladders down to the bottom of Mordor are utter shite. We climbed down to the bottom in Aug 2016 and they ain't got long left)

Quickdraws are for clipping the chain, I found that my Wild Country Xenon snapgates clipped the links in the chain but smaller snapgates might not. Hence if using smaller snapgates substitute them with extra slings to thread the chain links or with larger screwgates/snapgates etc…

Allow roughly 5-6 hours.

Setting out for an adventure!

Park at the bus stop quarry car park just outside of Dinorwig (Follow postcode LL55 3ET until the obvious layby on your left.)
Head through the gate on to the footpath and walk up the path until you pass a large derelict building on your left. Pass the building and go through the gate on your left. Now in front of you should be a metal gate before the path bends 90 degrees right. Climb this gate.

(The way to Dali’s Hole from the layby car park. The red dot marks the building you pass and the blue dot marks the gate you need to climb)

Dali’s Hole area:

After climbing over the gate Dali’s Hole will be on your right. Look over to the opposite cliffs and you should see two tunnels. Head round the left hand side keeping Dali’s hole on your right and go through the lower, larger tunnel. You will pass through two tunnels to emerge in to California.

(A close-up of Dali’s Hole area. The red marker is the rough location of the tunnel to California)

California area:

After emerging from the tunnel look left to see the chain hanging out of the high tunnel. This is your next challenge. Climb the chain (Can be aided in the wet) to the mouth of the tunnel. This is your first taste of the rusty delights that await you. The first 5 feet of chain have now gone, some nice person has stacked an old sleeper or mine shaft beam to climb on top of. With a bit of a stretch you can clip the first link and begin climbing up. Check out how shite the chain anchor is. All in good fun eh :)

(My mate Tom climbing the chain)

Head through the tunnel after climbing the chain to emerge back in to Dali’s Hole.

Dali’s Hole (Again):

Down climb or ab (Safer in the pissing wet!) from the tat and mallion on the tree to the edge of Dali’s Hole.  Here you don’t want to scramble up right (Facing Dali’s Hole) over the loose horrible slate slope and look for the tunnel.  Instead simply wander down to the edge of Dali’s Hole and walk rightwards (as if heading back out). Pass the large landslide of slate on your right and start looking for the tunnel into Tasmania about here.

You should spend your time searching for this tunnel as that is part of the fun but if you want a clue: The love tunnel might help.

Wander through the tunnel after squeezing in and watch out for any used Johnny's.

Tasmania and Australia:

You will find yourself at the bottom of the Australia section of the quarry called Tasmania. From here there are two options. You can head up left (Facing out of the tunnel) over oil drum glacier and around to the right as described on UKC or alternatively as we did head right following the guide in the other blog.

Australia:

Head right (Facing out of the tunnel). Precariously scramble up the right side of Australia over loose horrible slate. Check out the other tunnels as you scramble up. You are heading for the obvious terrace with the odd bit of old mining equipment on it (Old chains, railway tracks etc...) and to get there you can either perform a death defying traverse and scramble to the terrace or head up and scramble over the traverse. 

(Looking out over to the far side of Australia. Oil drum glacier and the left hand route go up this side)

Once you have reached the terrace move along it to a large flat grassy level and spot your first ladder (Err not anymore, it has fallen down!) Take time to have a bit of an explore and give yourself a pat on the back.

Climb the bent slanting ladder to the next terrace - or not as it has collapsed and only the last 4 feet or so are still hanging on to the anchor. We found an alternative way up to the second terrace. The best way to describe it is an easy solo up a series of loose as fuck ledges with splintering slate for hand and foot holds. So lets say you are looking at the old twisted remains of the first ladder, look to your left and you will see a series of about 3 or 4 small ledges that climb up to the second terrace on the left. This is what we did and it was a tad sketchy, getting up on to the last ledge is the worst bit. There is a tree you can grab but only use it for balance!

Now from the second terrace we can carry on.

Spot more ladders and climb those as well.

(Don’t worry there is more to come)

The ladders in this section are easy to spot and so finding and climbing them shouldn't take you long. It is also worth checking out the bomber protection used to hold some of them to the top.

The last ladder section is broken in to three separate ladders following a pipe to the top. See photo

(Tom on the last set of ladders before reaching the top)

At the top of the ladder shown above (Running parallel with the rusty pipe) head right looking forward from the top of the ladder along the terrace. When you reach the collection of old buildings head slightly left through a sort of valley with piles of slate on either side of you.

(The view right along the terrace from the top of the last ladder with the slate buildings in the background)

Top Level of the slate mines:

When you are through this section you should see a derelict partly destroyed building on your right. Head towards this building to find a slate staircase (50 or so long slate steps, a sort of small Mayan staircase) heading down to another level. Keep a mental note of this as this is where you need to go. Turn around so the derelict building is behind you and scramble up the slate hill and spend a few minutes looking around the old buildings on the upper level. You are about half-way done now so you may want to stop for a bite to eat and a drink while exploring this section.

When ready to push on head back to the old building and scramble down the slate slope to the right of the staircase below the partly destroyed building. You can also go straight down the slate staircase but might be slippery if it is wet.

When at the bottom you should be able to see a knee high bent over old fence on your left. This gains you access to the upper level of The Lost World. Though you won’t be able get down to the Lost World from this upper level it is worth having a look.

From the bottom of the slate staircase you will need to head right along the terrace, keeping to the left so you can look down to the lower level for the The Lost World. You will pass a large tree growing out of the cliff. Keep going until you spot a break in the wall and a large slate scree slope heading down and leftwards to the next level. Make a mental note when you find it as this is the way to the abseils for The Lost World. Keep heading along the terrace to explorer some more old slate buildings.

Head back to the slate scree slope and climb down to the lower level. Follow the path towards a large gap with towering slate walls either side. Once through you will be able to look down into The Lost World.

The Lost World:

(Looking down at The Lost World,  truly The Lost World now)

Locate the ab point on your right (Rope and mallion) once passing into The Lost World. Ab down to the level below and head right (Facing out) to find another ab point (Rope and maillion) off a large block. There is also ab tat from the tree as well. Ab down to the final terrace above The Lost World. Locate the rusty ladders again to the right (Facing out) and head down. The top ladder is attached by suspect old tat to a rusty pulley of some sort.

(Tom climbing down to The Lost World)

For those familiar with Snakes and Ladders (and Tunnels) check out the devastation caused to The Lost World from the recent slate landslide. Nearly everything is gone including most of the bothy. A damn shame!

From here head to the left hand tunnel to get to Mordor!

Mordor:

Upon exiting the tunnel look to the right down in to Mordor and the very suspect crappy great ladder of Mordor. This series of three shite rusty ladders will fall down soon so before they do feel free to head down into the depths of Mordor. It is probably a good idea to anchor your rope at the top and use it as a backup. Transitioning from the end of the first ladder to the second is top banter. The second middle ladder is attached to the cliff in some way but not sure how it is still there.

Once down have a wander through the tunnel and check out some of the bolted sport routes.

(Tom in Mordor)

Head back up the great ladder of Mordor if you are still alive and check out the additional tunnels on this upper level. When you have done all your exploring head over to the big ladder that will get you out of Mordor.

Climb this ladder to the top trying not to break the old rotten rope rungs.



(Tom on The Great Ladder of Mordor)

Once up the top  spot one more ladder. This gets you up to the Kyber Pass. Before heading up this last ladder wander over to the tunnel and have a gander. Several lower-offs for ab'ing down into various parts of Mordor and the Lost World. Try not to get excited and run off the edge.

Head back out of the tunnel and climb the last ladder.

Bridge of death and getting home:

At the top of this last ladder head right to see the twisted remains of the bride of death. To be a bit more specific the bridge of death was an old suspended rusty railway track that has now fallen into the gully. Be thankful that you no longer have to cross this and locate a large rusty pipe running up the slate slope. Climb up the slate slope next to the rusty old pipe. From the top walk over to the other side of the bridge of death and scramble back down to the terrace on the other side of the ravine.

From here carefully cross over two fences (Steps have been provided for one of the fences) to reach a building housing an old pulley system. Walk down the old track back to the path at the bottom where you will need to cross the fence on you left and then climb the metal gate to reach the footpath proper.

Job Done

Optional: Head to Pete’s Eats in Llanberis for a well-deserved beer & burger.